LoopyLoopers - Veronica, Mike & Pazza Bella   Traveling "The Great Loop"
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    • Travel Journal November 2013
    • Travel Journal December 2013
    • End of the Journey - January 2014
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Week Nineteen, August 5th, 2013


Monday, August 5th, 2013

Monday broke bright and cheery, and we departed the Kirkfield Lift Locks at 7:45 AM, en route to Orillia, Ontario. Our route took us across Lake Simcoe, which can be very treacherous but was tame as a kitten for us, and into the bottom of Lake Couchiching. After a 32 mile run, we pulled into the Port of Orillia Marina at 3:00 PM.

At Orillia, we got some bad news. Our friends from Puddleduck, Ken and Jean, who live on Lake Simcoe, were planning to continue on the loop and perhaps travel with us for a while. Well, they have had a health issue come up, and probably will not continue on this year. Our thoughts and prayers are with them. Hopefully, we will see them down water again soon.
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Monday Morning from the Top of Kirkfield Lift Lock


Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Departed Orillia at 9:15 AM to begin one of the benchmark points of the Loop, a trip down The Big Chute Marine Railway. We arrived at big chute at 4:00 PM, and decided to take the advice of others before us by tying up for the night and watching the Big Chute in action before we attempted it ourselves. The big chute is basically a metal box on a railway. The box is open at either end, and the bottom is slotted. This allows all of the water to drain off when the box comes out of the water on its railway trucks (wheels). They drive the box into the water on the upper end, and then you drive your boat into the box. Next, they tighten up huge straps, like on a marina travel lift, and secure the boat in place. Once this is done, the box is driven up over a hill, across a road, and down a hill 57 feet to the lower pool, where the box goes into the water, the straps are loosened, and you drive out of the box. The view is amazing from the top, and the ride is something never to be forgotten. We all took turns taking pictures of the others boats in the group when their turn came. The shots of Pazza Bella came from Bucket List, Barefoot'n, and Sea Glide.

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Big day down the Big Chute.
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Big Chute Marker

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First Morning Trip into the Upper Pool

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Getting Ready to Load

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Pazza Bella Driving in Behind Small Day Cruiser

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Getting Positioned in the Box

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Starting Down After Crossing Road

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Continuing Down

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Mike & Veronica onboard PB - 3/4 Way Down the Hill

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Entering the Water at the Lower Pool

To say that the rest of the trip that day was anti-climatic would be an understatement. We all cleared the Big Chute at 10:30 AM, and headed to Port Severn, where we would go through our last lock until we reach Chicago, and then on to Bay Port Marina in Midland, Ontario.

The exit of the Trent-Severn Waterway in Port Severn is treacherous, to say the least. Bay Port Marina has a standing offer for loopers. They will send an experienced pilot to meet you at the Port Severn Lock, and guide you through to Midland. The drive by car is about 45 minutes, and the boat trip back about an hour and a half. Brian, our trusty pilot, rode with Barefoot'n, the widest and longest of our group, and the rest of us followed along behind. The channel is so narrow in spots, that from behind it looked like Barefoot'n was scraping the red and green buoys when she passed between them. But, we all made it through without bumping bottom, and arrived at Midland at 3:30 in the afternoon.

Thursday, August 8 and Friday, August 9th, 2013

Bay Port Marina has a great deal for Loopers, stay two nights and get the third night free, so we all decided this was a good time to rest up, top off the fuel tanks and re-provision. They have several late model vans that were available to us, and that allowed us to go into Midland and neighboring Penetanguishene. That also allowed the ladies to have a day out shopping and pampering. Lunch at a local Pub, pedicures at the local spa.
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(l-r) Vicki (Barefoot'n), Cindy (Bucket List), Veronica (Pazza Bella) and Grace (SeaGlide)

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Guess Which Foot Goes With Which Lady


Saturday, August 10, 2013

Excitement at the marina before we left. There were some local water cops at the fuel dock fueling their boat when a couple of local guys came in to get fuel in a small runabout. In the process, they ran into the dock several times trying to tie up. The cops saw that and went to talk to the guys, finding out they were BLASTED!! at 9:00 AM on a Saturday. Must have been left over from the night before. Anyway, they hauled the driver off to jail and confiscated the boat.

Once they left the fuel dock area, we were all able to fuel up and head out. We left for Bone Island about 10:00 AM. On arrival, we tried several anchorages, but the place was jammed with boats, so we kept on and found an anchorage at Indian Harbor, giving us a 36 mile day. This also marked a milestone for Pazza Bella. 2,000 statute miles from Charleston!!

Barefoot'n and SeaGlide each anchored separately, and Bucket List and Pazza Bella both threw out hooks and rafted together. Made for a much nicer ride with the wind that was blowing through. 
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Veronica and Mike at Indian Harbor

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Sunrise Over SeaGlide at Indian Harbor


Sunday, August 11, 2013

After a peaceful night at anchor, we split up and went out separate ways for a bit. Pazza Bella and Bucket List hung together and headed for Killbear Marina, a trip of 30 miles. Along the way, we stopped at another Georgian Bay landmark, Henry's San Soucci Restaurant. The restaurant is right on the waterway, and has hosted a ton of famous people over the years. They come by boat or by seaplane, landing right in front and taxiing to the docks for a quick lunch. Or, you can tie up for the night, if you wish. Henry's famous fish and chips for lunch (they were out of smelt), and then off to Killbear, arriving there around 2:30 PM.

At Killbear, the treat was a German Restaurant (four German dishes) for dinner, right at the marina. The Jaeger Schnitzel was not bad! Who'd a thunk??

Week Twenty, August 12, 2013


Monday, August 12, 2013

Departed Killbear Marina at 8:00 AM Monday, headed 49 miles up Georgian Bay to Wright's Marina in Britt, Byng Inlet, traveling with Larry and Cindy on Bucket List. Our trip took us past Pointe Au Baril and five miles offshore into Georgian Bay. The first part was relatively calm, but by the time we reached Britt, the winds and seas had picked up. Several hours after we reached Britt, Barefoot'n and SeaGlide came into the inlet and docked at the next marina up river from us. We made plans to check in together the next morning and check winds and waves for the trip to Collins Inlet near Killarney.
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Pointe au Baril Lighthouse

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Tuesday broke windy and overcast. Larry and I didn't feel comfortable with the forecast and the current conditions in Georgian Bay, so we elected to stay in port. Barefoot'n and SeaGlide opted to stick their noses out into the bay and see if it was passable. About an hour and a half later, SeaGlide came back to the marina. They had decided that it was a wee bit too rough for them. Barefoot'n, being 55' long and much heavier than the rest of us continued on up to Collins Inlet and anchored in Mill Lake for a few days.

Since the day was cold and miserable, we decided to have a Chili Cookoff. Each boat made a batch, and we all got together and tasted all three. After dinner, three winners were declared. They were all excellent.

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

The weather appeared to have cleared a bit, so we three decided to give it a try, leaving at 6:30 AM to go as far as possible before it picked up again. Well, we were not quite right. It picked up after we were committed, and ran 3 to 4 foot waves at 5 second intervals, with the occasional 5 to 6 footer thrown in for good measure. The only saving grace was that it was on our nose and not a beam or following sea. Still and all, there was not an item on the boat that was in the same place when we finally got off the Bay some 30 miles later. All told, we ran a total of 47 miles, and arrived at Mill Lake off Collins Inlet to anchor with Barefoot'n about 12:30 PM.

The only thing that has been consistent on our trip through Canada has been the scenery. It just keeps getting better and better.
 
Thursday, August 15, 2013

Today we left Georgian Bay. We pulled out of Mill Lake about 9:15 AM, into Collins Inlet and back out into Georgian Bay to the Killarney Channel. The 15 mile run was once again through breathtaking scenery, and the weather and waves were co-operating. This is supposed to start a week to week and a half mild weather window, which we are all eager to take advantage of.
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Small Indian Head Rock Formation - Collins Inlet

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Narrow Passage Through Collins Inlet

We have increasingly come across "Inuksuk" on the trip through Georgian Bay.

An inuksuk (plural inuksuit) is a stone landmark or cairn built by humans, used by the Inuit, Inupiat, Kalaallit, Yupik, and other peoples of the Arctic region of North America. These structures are found from Alaska to Greenland. This region, above the Arctic Circle, is dominated by the tundra biome and has areas with few natural landmarks.

The inuksuk may have been used for navigation, as a point of reference, a marker for travel routes, fishing places, camps, hunting grounds, places of
veneration, drift fences used in hunting or to mark a food cache.The Inupiat in northern Alaska used inuksuit to assist in the herding of caribou into contained areas for slaughter. Varying in shape and size, the inuksuit have longtime roots in the Inuit culture.

Officials in various wilderness parks throughout Canada routinely dismantle inuksuit constructed by hikers and campers, for fear that they could misdirect park visitors from the cairns and other markers that indicate hiking trails. The practice of erecting inuksuit in parks has become so widespread that Killarney Provincial Park, on the north shore of Ontario's Georgian Bay, issued a notice in 2007 urging visitors to "stop the invasion" of inuksuit.

A large number of inuksuit have been built in some areas along the Trans-Canada Highway, including Northern Ontario. In 2010, a journalist from Sudbury's Northern Life counted 93 inuksuit along Highway 69 between Sudbury and Parry Sound. The journalist successfully tracked down a person who had built two inuksuit along the route; he attributed his action to having had a "fill the dreams moment where I needed to stop and do it" while driving home from a family funeral.

According to Guinness World Records, the tallest inuksuk is in Schomberg, Ontario, Canada. Built in 2007, it is 37 feet tall.
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Two Inuksuk's Pointing the Way in Collins Inlet

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Looking South On Georgian Bay Exiting Collins Inlet

On reaching The Sportsman's  Inn in Killarney, we ran into several other loopers, some going the west to east route, and compared notes. One thing leading to another, it degenerated into a docktail party which relocated to the pub in the inn for dinner, drinks and a sing along with the local talent, a gal who plays the piano and ukulele and who used to live in Hawaii and has sung backup for some well known entertainers. Everyone had a ball, evident by the fact that we way outstayed "Looper Midnight" (nine PM).
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Sportsman's Inn - Killarney (Tinkerbelle the Water Taxi on Right)


Friday, August 16, 2013

A sad day for us. The fellowship has been broken. Bucket List was advised of a family health emergency and will have to make fast tracks home to St. Louis. Barefoot'n is going to rest up a few weeks in Indiana before continuing on (maybe not till spring), and SeaGlide is going off to anchor in some of the more out of the way bays and coves. Bucket List and Barefoot'n will travel with us one more time to Little Current, and then go their separate ways.

The trip to Little Current was one of the calmest days I have ever seen. There was not a ripple on the water or a breath of wind. We made the trip in good time, arriving 15 minutes before the swing bridge opening. We three docked at the town dock for one last evening together. We attended an Hors d'oeuvre  party thrown by the local Cruisers Net group and their sponsors at the Anchor Inn, and got to meet about 20 other boaters, locals and loopers in progress.
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Mike on the Bridge Leaving Killarney

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Large Indian Head Rock Formation - Covered Portage Cove - North Channel

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Not a Wave or a Breath of Wind - Heading to Little Current - North Channel

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Lighthouse at Little Current - North Channel

Saturday, August 17, 2013

Today is another lay day for Pazza Bella and Bucket List. Laundry and provisioning, and we sat in on the North Channel Cruisers Net broadcast at the Anchor Inn.  

Barefoot'n pulled out around noon, headed for the states, leaving us and Bucket list in Little Current. Somewhat later, Darff V pulled in with old friends Ray and Arline on board, docking next to us and Bucket List. We spent the evening onboard for snacks and drinks, along with Larry and Cindy from Bucket List. Last hurrah, as they are leaving in the morning for a hundred mile plus run straight to Drummond Island in the states.

Sunday, August 18, 2013

We helped Bucket List on her way at 0600 this morning. Sad goodbyes.

Ten AM rolled around and we said goodbye to Little Current and Darff V and headed for Spanish, Ontario. We arrived at 2:00 PM after a beautiful but uneventful 33 mile ride. Seems strange to be travelling solo.

Our itinerary for the next few days is here to Blind River, Blind River to Drummond Island (check back in at US Customs), Drummond to DeTour Harbor Marina, and arriving at Mackinac Island for a two day stopover on Wednesday the 21st, as always, weather permitting.

Week Twenty-one, August 19, 2013


Monday, August 19, 2013

Todays travels take us from Spanish, Ontario to Blind River, Ontario. Very peaceful 30 mile ride. Left Spanish at 9:00 am and arrived at Blind River at 12:30 pm. Mid afternoon saw the arrival of Aurora, Carina (bath sail), and Spiritus, with old friends Eddy and Linda Johnsen on board. We already made plans to go into town for dinner, but the rest of the crew stayed at the marina and cooked out.  When we returned to Pazza Bella, we heard a Conch horn blowing across the marina. So, naturally, I got our old trusty out and blew away, resulting in an ovation from across the marina. Turned out to be Kent on Carina, and we all had a good chuckle.
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Whaleback Channel Between Spanish and Blind River, Ontario

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Our Last Canadian Sunset - Blind River Ontario

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Our Last Canadian Sunrise - Part One - Blind River, Ontario

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Our Last Canadian Sunrise - Part Two -Blind River, Ontario

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Departed Blind River at 7:00 am for Drummond Island US Customs and then on to Detour Village, Michigan. Canada was fun, but it was great to be back in the states. Aurora, Carina and Spiritus had all left before us at first light, but we caught up to our sailors first, and then to Spiritus just as we entered US waters. Eddy had not plotted out the harbor entrance, which was pretty tricky, so he followed us into Drummond Yacht Harbor and the US Customs dock at about 11:30 am. The customs folks were really great and got us on our way in record time. Then, off to DeTour Village Michigan.

All through the day, we had loopers trickling in, all looking for safe harbor from the building waves. Besides ourselves, there were Aurora (Mike & Cindy Gilbertson), Carina (Kent & Jane Overbeck), Spiritus (Eddy & Linda Johnsen), Journey (Rick & Margi Decatur), Harmony (Bob & Janet Schwertzel), Irish Attitude (Mike & Gay Kelly), Darff V  (Ray & Arline Cutro) and Raydiance (Tom and Linda Ray). Well, guess what? With nine looper boats in the marina, we had one heck of a Docktail Party. Best one yet!!
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U.S. Customs at Drummond Island, Michigan

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Moon Over Drummond Island from DeTour Village, Michigan

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Wednesday came with moderate winds, and a few of us decided to stick our noses out of DeTour Passage and into Northern Lake Huron to see if we could get to Mackinac Island. Raydiance led us out with PB following and Darff V bringing up the rear. Well, four miles later as we approached the DeTour Passage Lighthouse, Darff V decided to turn back (3 to 4 footers on our nose), and shortly thereafter, we followed suit. Raydiance decided to stick it out, and eventually made a safe haven well short of Mackinac. On our return to DeTour, we had to acknowledge that the other guys had made a good decision in not venturing out. With the day to enjoy, we found a little local bar and grill that had homemade pizza and a shuffleboard table. Wow, talk about a blast from the past. We had a ball seeing who was the worst shuffleboard player.
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DeTour Reef Light - Entering Lake Huron from DeTour Passage

Thursday, August 22, 2013

We left DeTour Village at 8:00 am and arrived in Mackinac Island Harbor 39 miles later at 12 noon. The trip was smooth and uneventful, and we travelled with Darf V, Journey, Harmony, Irish Attitude, Carina and Aurora. Spiritus was with us but decided to go to Mackinac City and come over to the Island by ferry. Here starts one of the best stops on the trip.

After docking and checking in, we took a walk uptown with Ray and Arline Cutro and had lunch at the Pink Pony. Mackinac is a neat place, in that there are no motorized vehicles allowed on the island. You either walk, ride a bike or go by horse drawn cart or carriage. After lunch, we went back to the boats and got our bikes down and the four of us went for an eight mile bike ride around the island. The shore road (eight mile long) completely circumnavigates the island, and the scenery is unbelievable. The water is so vivid, it looks like you are in the Caribbean. There are those of you who know me who may think that an eight mile bike ride would wear me out, and I am happy to tell you that you are correct. After the ride, we were completely happy to spend the evening on the boat reading and eating some world famous Mackinac Island fudge.
Friday, August 23, 2013

Friday came with a beautiful sunrise over a still harbor. We had big plans for the day. Along with Ray and Arline, we hired a carriage with tour guide for the "complete, best and most knowledgeable tour" of the island. Our guide, Erin, was really a good guy, and knew all the answers to the typical tourist questions.
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Mackinac Island Harbor - Mackinac Island, Michigan

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Taxi Stand - Mackinac Island

The Grand Hotel, one of our first stops, is the largest and oldest totally wooden structure (no steel, no concrete) still standing in the US today. In order to get into the hotel after six in the evening, men must wear a jacket and tie. No denim or shorts allowed. The pool next to the hotel was built for an Esther Williams/Jimmy Durante movie in the 40'so 50's, and is still in use today.
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Grand Hotel - Mackinac Island, Michigan

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High Speed Ferry at Mackinac Straights Bridge

After our tour of the island, the four of us went up to Fort Mackinac and walked through the grounds. The view from the Fort at the highest point of the island, is breathtaking. After our tour, we had a lite lunch at the little restaurant overlooking the town.
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Pazza Bella Lying at Mackinac Island Marina from Fort Mackinac

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Main Street Mackinac Island

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Arline & Ray Cutro (Darff V) at Fort Mackinac

Now, here's a bit of coincidence. I have been looking at Ray, trying to think of who he reminds me of. I kept thinking he looks like my grandfather and my cousin. So, we got to talking, and found out that his family came to America from a little town in Italy called Cutro, which turns out to be 25 miles (as the crow flies) from the town my family comes from (Taverna). Hmmmmmmm!!

Well, anyway, we had reservations that night for dinner at a lodge in the woods called, of all things, The Woods. It was a 45 minute ride by horse drawn carriage (12 passengers) to a place that looked like something our of a Bavarian Forrest. The restaurant was hung with countless hunting trophies, and the German food was to die for. All followed by another ride back to the marina through a moon lit forest. What a way to end our visit.
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Mike & Veronica at the Woods Restaurant - Mackinac Island

Saturday, August 24, 2013

Today we journey to Petosky, Michigan, a 57 mile run from Mackinac. We travelled alone, leaving Ray and Arline in Mackinac Island for another two days, but after arrival, we were joined by Spiritus and Harmony. Petosky is a great little town with a protected harbor on the south side of Little Traverse Bay. We decided to go to an Irish Pub for a late lunch/early dinner with Bob and Janet and Eddy and Linda, and had a great afternoon.
Sunday, August 25, 2013

Sunday proved to be a weather day, with high winds and seas, so I decided to catch up on some much needed repairs. We had been taking on water in the engine room, and I thought I had localized the problem to a raw water intake hose, but when I pulled the salon floor and got my head down there while the engine was running, I realized that the raw water pump had a leak caused by a screw holding on the backing plate that had corroded and broken off. After breaking off another screw trying ti remove it, I could see that the only way to really fix the problem was to remove the water pump and work on it on the dock. Well, once I got it out, the other screw would not come out, and I had no way to grind them off. I asked the Dockmaster if he had a grinding wheel, and he offered to have one of his guys drive me over to their maintenance shop so I could use their bench grinder. Well, one thing led to another, and 45 minutes later, I had the back off, the old screws ground down and removed, and the plate polished to a bright shine. When we got back to the boat, I replaced the impeller, put in the new screws and re assembled the whole system. Started up the engine and, voila, it leaked just like before. Good news was, it just needed for the paper gasket to absorb water and expand, and for the permatex I used to set up. The next day, no more leak!! Could not have done it without the guys from Petosky (many, many thanks).

Week Twenty-two, August 26, 2013

Monday, August 26, 2013

Another lay day! The weather turned really crappy, with rain, thunderstorms and high winds and waves. Veronica got all caught up with laundry, and we got to provision and hit the liquor store and West Marine. In the afternoon, all I did was stare at the water!!
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Capt. Mike Trying to Get the Rain to Stop

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

The weather finally turned nice, and we left Petosky at 0700, headed for Leland, Michigan, and the historic Leland Fishtown District. Eddy and Linda on Spiritus left at first light, and we passed them about halfway to Leland. While traveling with Spiritus, that is our usual routine. Eddy travels about a mile and a half an hour slower than us. PB's engines don't do well unless we run fast enough to get them warm. After docking both boats, we headed to Fishtown.

Many of the original weathered fishing shanties composing Fishtown, now house small shops along the mouth of the Leland River, as it flows into Lake
Michigan. However, these historic shanties were once used primarily for commercial fishing operations, including net-mending sheds, ice houses, smoke
houses, and storage. A few Fishtown shanties are still used today to support the current, active commercial fishing operation.

 For over 150 years Fishtown has evolved as a working waterfront. The shanties represent the heart and foundation of Fishtown, and are loved for their rustic
appeal and enduring functionality. Surviving many a cold, windy, snowy winter in Northern Michigan, these shanties continue to tell their story of endurance. 
  
In the 1800s Leland's fishing vessels were primarily open, wood mackinaw boats, rigged with sails. By the early 1900s, fishermen began to replace the
sails with gas-powered engines, and eventually gas was replaced with diesel engines. The new engines enabled more room onboard for protective cabins, which gave the fishermen the ability to safely fish farther from port, and longer into the season.

Eventually the wood tug fishing boat design was developed, and helped the fishermen to be even more efficient. In 1958 the Steffens and Stallman families
added two new fish tugs to the Leland fleet, the Janice Sue and the Mary Ann, both made of steel. The steel tugs were more durable than the former wood tugs, and became the preferred fishing boat in Leland. Janice Sue has served in Leland ever since. Trap net fishing began in Leland in 1982, with the launch of the hand-crafted steel tug, the Joy. As you walk the docks in Fishtown, you will can see the working Janice Sue and Joy, which have become Leland's icon.

Of course, the things we loved were the Ice Cream Shop and all the little shops nearby. Keep in mind, we did our touring in the pouring (and I do mean pouring) rain.
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Historic Fishtown 1, Leland Michigan

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Historic Fishtown 2, Leland, Michigan

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Departing Leland at 9:00 am, we arrived at Frankfort, Michigan, 41 miles away, at 1:30 pm. Still traveling with Spiritus, we headed out for a tour of the town, and wound up at Dinghy's for a beer and some baby back ribs. Frankfort is a nice little town, and the boat next to us at the marina (Double Time) held another looper, Frank Adshed and his wife Gail. More coincidence at hand. Frank and I got to talking and found out that we had both crewed in the 1982 and 1984 Newport to Bermuda races. Turns out we knew some of the same people. Talk about a small world.
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Late Lunch at Dinghy's - Frankfort, Michigan
(l-r) Mike, Veronica, Linda & Eddy (Spiritus)

Thursday, August 29, 2013

We left Frankfort at 8:00 am and headed up to Luddington, with Spiritus close behind. The early morning fog burned off quickly, and we had a beautiful 51 mile run down the coast. We had a small accident before we left Frrankfort. Eddy and I were chatting at his boat, and when he attempted to get off of his boat and onto the dock, he slipped on the wet dock and really banged up his leg and various other parts of his body, nearly winding up in the water. But no apparent serious injuries, so off we went.
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Morning Fog with Swans - Frankfort, Michigan

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Leaving Frankfort Harbor

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Spiritus Following Pazza Bella out of Frankfort Harbor

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Big Sable Point Lighthouse - Ludington, Michigan

Friday, August 30, 2013

We all decide to stay in port today to let Eddy's body heal up. His body had more colors showing than a box of crayons. Also, small craft warnings were again posted. Deciding it was time to fuel up, we pulled up to the fuel dock and topped her off. I started to figure our mileage, and found that it was indeed a momentous occasion. Not only had we achieved a record MPG of 2.1, but we had just reached the 2500 mile mark on our trip. So, we pooled resources with Spiritus and had a champagne and munchies party. Fun fun fun!!!!
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Mike & Cold Champagne - Ludington, Michigan

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Veronica (left) and Linda (Spiritus)

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Linda and Eddy Johnsen (Spiritus)

Saturday, August 31, 2013

Off again. The weather and sea gods were good to us, and we left Ludington at 7:45 am, heading to White Lake, and the Whitehall Municipal Marina. After a 42 mile run, we entered White Lake and proceeded 5 miles up the lake to the marina. Spiritus decided to anchor out near the mouth of the lake, and would see us in the morning.
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Lighthouse - White Lake Michigan - Harbor Entrance

After we arrived in Whitehall, we took a walk through town, stopping at the local soft serve ice cream shop, and picked up some reserve motor oil at the local NAPA store. An uneventful stay, and we just stayed on the boat for the rest of the evening, enjoying a glass of wine and a beautiful sunset.
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