LoopyLoopers - Veronica, Mike & Pazza Bella   Traveling "The Great Loop"
  • The Great Loop Route
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    • Travel Journal April 2013
    • Travel Journal May 2013
    • Travel Journal June 2013
    • Travel Journal July 2013
    • Travel Journal August 2013
    • Travel Journal September 2013
    • Travel Journal October 2013
    • Travel Journal November 2013
    • Travel Journal December 2013
    • End of the Journey - January 2014
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Early Morning Calm
Double Bascule Bridge with First Lock of Trip Beyond
Great Bridge, Virginia

Week Five - April 29, 2013

So, week five starts us off on the right foot. We finally talked to Brian at American Diesel, and he was able to put us onto an injector shop in Richmond VA that was a Luca CAV distributor. After speaking with Kevin at Superior Diesel, we found the correct part number for the wrench and the sealing washers in the delivery valve holder. Kevin would have to order the wrench (out of stock), and we would have it by Wednesday. Then, we got an e-mail. "Sorry for the confusion, but we found a new wrench on our shelf we didn't know we had and have UPSed the parts for delivery tomorrow." Wow!! I've never gotten stuff early!!

Anyway, the wrench came in and the yard finished the fix while we were out shopping on Tuesday. So, after settling the bill with Atlantic Yacht Basin, we were off again Wednesday morning.

One more word about AYB. Tim the mechanic was the cleanest, neatest guy we've ever had work on the boat. Just like our guy Aaron in Charleston, he took great pains to cover everything with plastic, and to keep the disturbance to our living space to a minimum. As a bonus, he and I both learned a lot about the Ford Lehman's, tutored, of course, by Brian at American Diesel.

Wednesday, May 1st, saw us taking Veronica on her first Lock passage. It was only an 18" lift, but she is no longer a lock virgin. With a little help from the lockmaster, we sailed through with flying colors, and Veronica got a good look at the process and an explanation of how and why the locks work.

Our afternoon trip was short (four miles), and three o'clock had us at the Top Rack Marina. We decided to stop there for several reasons. First, they had the least expensive diesel fuel in a hundred miles. Second, they offered free dockage and power for the night if we ate in their restaurant, the Amber Lantern. Well, that seemed like a good deal, so we stayed.

I was a little skeptical at first. Free deals make me wonder. 

A good decision. Dinner was the best Rack of Lamb I have had in many a day. Veronicas Pork Chops were excellent, and so big she had to take one back to the boat. Between dinner and the wonderful fried oyster appetizer, we couldn't even think of dessert.

Thursday, May 2, and we are finally going to arrive in Norfolk, VA, which we are constantly reminded is pronounced
 "Naw-fok". ?? Well, when in Rome....

The Waterside Marina (home for the next week) is a great little transient marina in downtown Norfolk. We came in at about noon, and spent most of the afternoon walking around downtown, including a stop at the MacArthur Museum, followed by Bangers and Mash and Shepherds Pie at a little Irish Pub by the marina. The lady Publican, oddly enough, was born in Hamburg, Germany, and has owned the pub for the last fifteen years or so.

Friday, May 3. We are running about town today to do errands. Had to drop the camera off at a camera shop for a cleaning to get that annoying black spot off the pictures. Then breakfast at Yorgo's Bagelry. Pretty good bagels, but not like New York.

Saturday, May 4th, and company came to visit!!  Roger and Connie Berardinis and Connie's dad Bob came for lunch. Roger and Connie came up to visit Connie's dad in Courtland, VA, and then brought him along to see us in Norfolk for lunch. We went to a great restaurant called the Freemason Abbey. Unfortunately, we picked a day when the local community college was graduating, and the restaurant was chuck full of large party's. But the staff was very accommodating and found us a table.

After lunch, we all went back to the boat for a few hours to chat and watch all the loopers coming in. Great time with good friends. Hopefully they will be back many time to visit us along the way.

Sunday, May 5, was a day to do chores and get ready for the rendezvous to start. Dinner at the Outback at the marina, and early to bed.


Week Six - May 6, 2013

Monday through Thursday was a blur. We spent every day in seminars and in meeting new folks and talking about routes and equipment and timetables. I could give you a detailed rundown, but you probably would be bored to death. The lunches and dinners provided as part of the rendezvous were all really good, and the evenings were our daily highlights. We were lucky enough to win a couple of door prizes (shirts and Waterway Cruising Guides), and found most of the charts and chart books that we did not have in the ships store.

AGLCA deserves a big round of applause for the hard work and effort they put into this years Rendezvous. It gave us an opportunity to meet a lot of the folks we will be travelling with along the loop, and to garner a TON of information about where to go and what to do. Thanks Guys!!!

Friday, May 10, and we are on the way up the Chesapeake!!
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The Only Exit From The Marina

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Pazza Bella with the Norfolk Navy Yard in the Background

You can see from the above picture how tight the slips were. When we came in on Thursday, the boats on either side were already there, and I had to back PB in with about a foot on either side, The guy on the trawler with the bikes on the bow saw us coming and got on his bow with a big boat hook. Not much current, but the wind was going pretty good. In spite of all that, we got the boat into the fairway, turned around and backed in without any help. The guy with the boat hook just watched and then congratulated us on our boat handling (read how lucky we were). Some days, it just goes right!!
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Loopers Lined Up at Waterside Marina Norfolk

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Justin from Waterside Marina with a Farewell Box Of
Krispy Kreme Donuts

Before departure an Friday the 10th, our Dockmaster, Justin, came round with a farewell box of donuts for all the loopers.

The trip up the Chesapeake turned out to be uneventful. It was a beautiful day on the water, waves one foot or less and just a bit of a breeze.
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Wolf Trap Lighthouse

Halfway to Regatta Point at Deltaville, we passed the Wolf Trap Lighthouse. The boat in the background gives you an idea of how big the lighthouse is. We were told that some years ago, all of the Chesapeake Lighthouses were sold to private individuals, with the proviso that the Coast Guard would always have access to service the lights and navigation aids. What a beach house. Whoops, no beach!!

We arrived at Doziers Regatta Point Marina in Deltaville at 2:30 on Friday, and settled in for a few days. The good folks at Regatta Point had invited all the loopers to come for a mini Rendezvous after Norfolk, and about twenty boats came for the party. They had a Wine and Cheese party for us Friday night, a cookout on Saturday night (bring an entrée to cook and a dish to pass, and they supplied everything else, including the wine and beer), and a Mimosa breakfast on Sunday the 12th.  
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Miss V (Center) and Debra (Right) from "Freewheelin"

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Our Host, Jack Dozier (On Left)

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The Group at the Cookout

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Craig & Barb from Blue Heron (Outside)
Randi and Vikki from Barefootin (Inside)
With Ferocious Barefootin Guard Dog Heidi

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The Cookout Entertainment

Sitting on the dock at sunset, after a great gathering, watching the Chesapeake roll by and thinking deep thoughts:

life's mostly gone by
with its highs and its lows
but it brooks no comparison
no likening to those
breezes that blow fair weather to me
with a taste of the sun and the wind and the sea

the future is bright
the past memories
and time keeps on marching
relentless tho it be
to a place only known to those who can see
a taste of the sun and the wind and the sea

so live while you can
and enjoy what you may
but keep all that's gone by
and what happens today
in a place in your mind that's open and free
with a taste of the sun and the wind and the sea

Week Seven - May 13, 2013

Monday, May 13.

Well, here we are again, stuck for some minor repairs.

The forward head won't clear, so we had to replace some piping and snake out the rest. I got frustrated trying to do it myself without the proper tools, so Monday we got the Deltaville Marine folks here to take care of it. While that was going on, I noticed that the batteries were not charging, so Deltaville also sent their electrician over to take a look. Turns out not to be major, but we have to replace a battery lead that is burned up. Problem started with a loose connection on an isolator switch that caused the main feed wire to overheat, Biggest problem is they can't fix the wires till Wednesday morning, which puts us into a bad weather day, so here we stay till Thursday.

The schedule looks like this. From here to Solomans. Solomans to Annapolis. Annapolis to Baltimore. We have to be in Baltimore by Wednesday the 22nd so Veronica can catch a flight back to Charlotte and watch granddaughter Miss Allie for a few days, and we really would like to be there a few days early so we can spend some time together in Baltimore's Little Italy section, where we will be docking.

Thursday, May 16

Off we go again.

We got the repairs all finished yesterday, and we are away from the dock at 0 dark 30 (six am). For those of you interested in what a loose connection can do, look at this:
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Fried OO Battery Cable

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Sunrise Leaving Regatta Point, Deltaville

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Sunrise on the Chesapeake, Deltaville

After these beautiful sunrises, we are continuing our trip up Chesapeake Bay. Next stop, Solomans Maryland.
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 Captain Mike - Grand Pooh Bah of the Bridge

As you can see, the Chesapeake is pretty flat and calm on our way to Solomans. Great for today, but unfortunately, not to last. We got into Solomans about 12:30 pm, and had a little issue come up. As we were motoring in, I noticed a pronounced vibration in the starboard prop.

Once we hit the dock, I asked about a diver to look it over for me, and found that there had been one there 10 minutes before we got in. As luck would have it, he was a few docks away, and came back to give us a look. Turned out the zinc anode on the starboard shaft was eaten away and had been sliding along the shaft, causing a lot of vibration. I left Charleston with a complete spare set of zincs, so I had the diver replace all the bad ones.

Friday, May 17

A beautiful day in Solomans. Veronica and I went to work and got the dinghy off the top of the Sun Deck and went to town for lunch. We were halfway across the creek when an inconsiderate fellow in a go fast boat threw us a wake that came right over the bow. It didn't catch Veronica too bad, but I looked like I had sat in a kiddie pool. Oh well.

Lunch was at Stoneys Solomans Pier Restaurant. Appetizer time. We got a couple of appetizers to share and a couple of cocktails. From there, we walked up and down the main street for a while, and then took back to the dinghy for an hour of exploring the local creeks.

The afternoon brought us a nice surprise. Randy, Vikki and Heidi from Barefootin were tied up across the creek and stopped by to say hi. They told us that the Band Perry was performing that night on shore and that we should be able to hear it from the boat. What we were able to hear was great.

Saturday, May 18

On our way to Annapolis at 7:20 am. The NOAA marine weather forecast called for 1 to 2 foot waves and light winds. On the way out of Solomans, we saw all these boats coming in. Uh oh. I called one of the fishing boats on the radio, and he told me it was 4 to 6 foot waves with occasional 8's. Big uh oh!! After discussing it with the Admiral, we decided to take a chance. The winds and waves should have been from the south, and after we rounded drum point, it should flatten out some. Well, it got kind of exciting till we rounded the point and turned north. We didn't see any 8's, but it was 4 to 6 most of the way. Veronica was ok most of the way, but started to look a bit green after the third hour. Fortunately, we got to Annapolis without breaking anything, and as soon as it laid down, Veronica was fine.

We spent a grand two hours at Pusser's Restaurant, one of our all time favorites, and right next to the marina. We sat next to a nice couple from northern California, and got to play the I've Been There game. A quiet evening, and ready for a big Sunday.

Sunday, May 19

Up early, coffee and showers, and off to the local Farmers Market, just around the corner.
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Veronica and Mike with the gals from Springfield Farm

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"Ego Alley" Basin, Next to the Farmers Market

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Looking Up Main Street

The Farmers Market was small, but had some really neat vendors. After we left there, we took a 20 minute walk up Main Street, and went for brunch at the Ram's Head Tavern, where I had found they had live jazz for Sunday Brunch.
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Rams Head Tavern Jazz Trio

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The Admiral at The Rams Head Tavern

After brunch, we went for a long walk, and found ourselves at the US Naval Academy. We went for a walk across campus, and spent an hour and a half going thru the Naval Academy Museum, which has the worlds largest collection of scale models of old sailing ships on the second floor. The first floor is the main Naval Museum, and has memorabilia from wars, naval battles, famous USNA graduates, etc etc etc. What a great place to visit.

Back to the boat for a small glass of wine and a rest for tired feet. I think we put on a good five or six miles.

Week Eight - May 20, 2013


Monday, May 20

Time to head for Baltimore. The weather forecast called for patchy fog, showers and thunderstorms, but only one foot seas, so we fired up the diesels and headed out at 8:50 am. This was a totally uneventful cruise. Flat as a pancake, and we only saw a couple of other boats. One was a six hundred foot freighter that was going into Baltimore behind us. She caught us up as we were entering the harbor, and we had to speed up a bit to stay ahead of her, but no problem and we got in OK.

So, here we are in Baltimore.

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Chesapeake Bay Bridge Leaving Severn River (Annapolis)

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Harbor East Yacht Basin - Downtown Baltimore

After arriving in Baltimore, we decided to skip dinner that day and head to Vaccaro's Italian Bakery and Pastry Shop in Little Italy for some of their Ricotta Cheesecake for dessert. What a place. Italian pastries I remember from the old neighborhood in Syracuse when there was an old fashioned Italian wedding. It smelled like heaven and took me way back. Needless to say, it was truly delicious. (Not quite as good as my Aunt the baker, but close!!)

Tuesday, May 21

Tuesday was devoted to maintenance and housekeeping, and Veronica and I spent the day catching up on chores. That night, we followed the advice of the Dockmaster, and went to the local Roy's Hawaiian Steakhouse for their Aloha Hour. Dinner was several shared appetizers and a cocktail, all for $6 apiece. Could not beat the price, and the food was excellent.  I checked the mileage so far, and totaled up six hundred and forty-five statute miles to date.

Wednesday, May 22

I spent the day installing the new deck wash system I bought a month ago on the fore deck. This system is for washing the mud off of the anchor when we pull it in, It sure makes it easier to keep the chain and foredeck clean. Veronica spent the day getting ready for her trip to Charlotte on Thursday to babysit little Allie for a few days. Since Veronica would not be back to Baltimore, we went to little Italy again and had dinner at Chiapparelli's. The Veal Osso Bucco was to die for, and the salad, which has their own special dressing on it, was fabulous. I have since found out that they are renowned for the dressing.

Thursday, May 23

So, Veronica was off to Charlotte in the morning. She took a cab to the airport and arrived in Charlotte safe and sound. While she is gone, my brother, Tony, is going to be crew so that we can move Pazza Bella up the road. Tony arrived in the afternoon, and we started making plans.
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Pazza Bella Lower Steering Station - Baltimore in Background

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Capt. Mike Looking for a Weather Window

As luck has so often had it on this trip, the next few days weather deteriorated and we were stuck in Baltimore until Sunday, the 26th of May. We spent the time laying in supplies for the next week, and making a few more repairs. The Salon smoke and carbon monoxide detector went belly up, so we headed for the local hardware store for a replacement. Dinners again were wonderful. Roy's again one night, and Captain James Crab House, where the crabs were to die for.

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Katyn National Monument - Downtown Baltimore

We got to see the Katyn National Monument in Baltimore. This monument honors some 23,000 Polish troops and civilians that were executed by the Russians in World War II and were buried in shallow graves the Russians forced them to dig before they were executed.

Sunday, May 26

Sunday morning finally showed us a marginal weather window, so we made a run at Delaware City at the end of the
C & D Canal. This would see us out of the Chesapeake Bay and on our way to the Atlantic Ocean. We pulled out at 5:40 am, hoping to get the worst  of the bay behind us before it started to kick up. Well, the weather service was  a little off again, and we had a pretty good run up the Chesapeake to the C & D.
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Approaching the Francis Scott Key Bridge - Leaving Baltimore

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Brother Tony at the Helm - Chesapeake Bay

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Entering West End of C & D Canal

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Schafers Inn & Restaurant on C & D Canal

We finally arrived at Delaware City Marina after a long run from Baltimore. The last mile and a half from the end of the Canal to the entrance to the marina canal was the roughest water on the trip to date. Here we were in the Delaware River going through six foot waves that were breaking over the bow. We slowed down as much as we dared, and had an exciting twenty minute run up the river. When we arrived at the Marina, we were pleasantly surprised to find a whole group of Loopers who had been waiting for the last six days for the river to lay down and make the trip to Cape May possible. We all had a Looper Docktail Party, and all the captains hashed out the next few days weather.
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First Mate Tony and the Loopers at Delaware City Marina

The consensus was that the next day would give us an opportunity, but maybe only for a day. The forecast called for one to two foot waves in the Delaware and two foot swells in the Atlantic from the southeast at nine second intervals. The timing of the tidal flow in the Delaware called for a departure from the marina at five am to take advantage of the current.

Week Nine - May 27, 2013


Monday, May 27

There was a convoy starting at five am, with the boats furthest up the marina  canal leaving first. Captain Tim, the Dockmaster at the marina, orchestrated the whole thing and came in at four thirty to get us all on our way. We final left
the dock at five twenty-five am and headed down river.
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Sunrise on the Delaware River

We were the fastest of the group, and wound up passing everyone on the way down river. We made great time and arrived at Cape May New Jersey around eleven-thirty am. We took a fuel stop at Miss Chris Marina in Cape May, and then decided that the weather was holding, so, off to Atlantic City.
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Looking Back at Cape May Canal Western Entrance

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Least Expensive Fuel in Three Hundred Miles

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Atlantic City from Five Miles Away

The run into Atlantic City capped off our longest run of the trip. We traveled one hundred and five statute miles, leaving Delaware City at five twenty-five am and arriving at Atlantic City at four pm.

We were going to stay at Farley's Marina. but when I called them on the radio, they told me that it was still considered part of the Memorial Day weekend and the rate was $4.00 a foot, plus electric. Now this is four pm on Monday!! Nobody is still our for the holiday weekend. They have all gone home to sober up and put aloe on their sunburns. Well, the second best place to stay was supposed to be Kammermans Marina. I looked them, and they were supposed to have floating wood docks. When we finally got in, the gal told me to tie up at the fuel dock. Turns out, all of their floating docks were destroyed in Sandy, and the only thing left was the fixed fuel dock. Oh, and a seven foot tide predicted. ????????
So, at that point, I just decided to stay. It was half the price, and we were going to be off early anyway. Then I asked the gal for a good restaurant. Oh, yeah. Great restaurant within walking distance. See it, its right over there! Well, it was "right over there". But, when we started to walk over, we discovered that there was a canal between us and it. Sooo, we walked around the canal. Turned out to be a two ,mile walk, one way. (Cab back). Moral of the story, ALWAYS ask questions!!!!

Tuesday, May 28

Left Atlantic City at five thirty-five am. The weather forecast was not the greatest, three to four footers by afternoon, but we made the run anyway. I figured that we could always duck in somewhere if it got too bad.
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Sunrise Leaving Atlantic City

The weather was not as bad as forecast, so we decided to try for the Shark River Inlet. We tried calling marinas at Manasquan and at Shark River all day, and could not get anyone to answer the radio or the phone, so we just kept going, and finally wound up at Mansions Marine in Great Kills on Staten Island, NY. They were the first marina I could get to answer that was open. We talked to several that had not been able to open yet due to the damage from Super Storm Sandy. The devastation from Sandy is just incredible! All the way up the coast, we could see damage. I heard people calling the Coast Guard to report large pieces of debris in the water. And, to top it off, our President was having a photo op with Governor Christie, and there were rolling closures of inlets from Manasquan on up to Sandy Hook, depending on where the Prez was at. And here I thought he couldn't annoy me anymore that he has.

Veronica's flight was due in to Newark airport at two pm, and when she called, I asked her to take a cab to Great Kills and meet us there. I thought that would put us there about the same time. Well, between the Prez and the traffic, she got there quite a lot later than us. By that time, we all needed a cocktail and some dinner, so we met at the Mansions Café outside the marina, and had dinner and a quaff or two, and then back to the boat to settle Miss V in and get ready for New York Harbor.

Wednesday, May 29

 Wednesday morning started out with dense fog. We waited for it to lift until about ten fifteen am, when it appeared to be thinning. After we left the dock and got out into the harbor, thought, it thickened up again. I had the AIS ship identification system open on my phone, and all I could see were large ships, tugs and ferrys everywhere. I ducked in between two freighters that were going into NY harbor, and followed them till it cleared up.
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Sandy Damage at Great Kills, Staten Island, NY

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Verrazano Narrows Bridge in Fog - One Mile Distance

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Lady Liberty in the Fog - New York Harbor

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Ellis Island - New York Harbor

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New World Trade Center - Manhattan

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Concorde SST Adjacent to USS Intrepid
Air & Space Museum - Manhattan
From Hudson River

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Harlem River Entrance - North End of Manhattan Island

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Mystic Whaler - Hudson River

We rode up the Hudson all day, with the weather improving, and got into Half Moon Bay Marina at Croton-on-Hudson around three ten pm. Total mileage to date, 970 Statute Miles.
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Half Moon Bay Marina - Croton on Hudson

Thursday, May 30

Thursday turned into another maintenance day. We'd been having trouble with the starter on the starboard engine not working. Tony and I had done some troubleshooting and determined that the problem was somewhere in the wiring in the engine room. So, Steve the Dockmaster at Half Moon dropped Veronica off at the local Laundromat and then took Tony and I looking for wire and some other parts, returning in time to pick up V at the laundry.

Getting into the engine room, the trouble was quickly located. Broken wire on the transmission neutral switch. Put on a new connector and no more problem. BUT, rooting around in the engine room revealed a serious leak at the starboard engine waterpump. Called Brian at American Diesel and found that the part was available. Next chore, where can we have it sent to. After much discussion, decided to send it to Rondout Yacht Basin in Kingston, NY. Only 50 NM up the river, and it would be there Tuesday morning.

We rented a car in the afternoon so we could chase more parts and do some errands. While we were out, Veronica found a great little Italian deli by the laundry, and we stopped to pick up pre cooked chicken cutlets and salads for dinner. Almost as good as Mom's.

Friday, May 31

Took Tony for breakfast at the local diner around six am and got him to the train station in time for his eight am train to Syracuse. We're going to miss him. We all had a great time while he was here.

Got back to the boat and ordered the parts for Tuesday delivery, and then went on a road trip to Peekskill.Returned the car at four pm, and hung out on the boat for dinner. The sunset near Half Moon Bay was a good way to end the month of May.
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Sunset off Half Moon Bay Marina

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